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30 SEPTIEMBRE 2020
>Diario de un caminante a Santiago

Palas de Rei (16-07-2014)

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Cruceiro de Lameiros

El caminante sabe bien dónde empieza el camino cada día, pero no alcanza a saber si cumplirá la jornada sin contratiempo. También sabe que el camino a veces engaña y cuando parece ser una línea recta se ondula sin remedio y se retuerce, y cuando parece que termina de empinarse no lo consigue y persiste cuesta arriba hasta el infinito. Si el camino engaña como un demonio es porque uno en el fondo está dispuesto a dejarse engañar. El camino es la metáfora perfecta de la vida, serpentea de izquierda a derecha, de arriba a abajo, zigzaguea sin fin, nos abraza como un amante posesivo y nos rechaza luego despechado por nuestra infidelidad. Amanece no, clarea todavía, y el Miño embalsado y embelesado en Belesar nos hace llorar de emoción mientras lo atravesamos ante la estampa inédita a nuestros ojos de la primera luz sobre el agua. A decenas surgen por doquier los cantos y los trinos de los pájaros primeros del alba. La escena, en verdad, emociona. Todavía medio a oscuras, el peregrino se deshace del sentimiento a duras penas y emprende su trabajo: caminar sin descanso. El peregrino ha descubierto ya que caminar es un duro trabajo cotidiano, igual de duro que ir al trabajo cada día en la vida normal. Se empina pues la mañana sobre un bosque que se intuye entreverado de robles y de hayas, y casi sin resuello se alcanza una hilera de pinos que adornan el sendero y donde nos sorprende en estampida un pequeño cervatillo. Con la luz ya ganando a las sombras, se deja ver una densa niebla tan llena de humedad que se produce el curioso fenómeno de desprenderse como una fina lluvia cada vez que el viento azuza las ramas de los árboles por donde atravesamos. Pasado Cortapezas espera Gonzar y sus diseminadas casas típicas. Se alterna la piedra con la tierra del camino, pero el verdor no nos llega a los sentidos en su esplendor por la espesa masa de agua pegada a los suelos. Son muchos los peregrinos que nos superan, seguros de sí mismos; nosotros también adelantamos a algunos, pero el Camino finalmente pone a cada cual en su sitio, como pasa también en nuestras vidas.

El camino no tiene límites. Somos nosotros quienes se (nos) lo(s) ponemos. Y es difícil a veces calcular las fuerzas. Cualquier tropezón da al traste con ellas. Una mala elección del calzado, un mal apoyo al caminar, un mal paso pueden ser definitivos para acabar con nuestros sueños. El caminante sabe que la meta es el camino, pero también sabe que cada camino tiene su propia meta que alcanzar, y no es cuestión de acabarlo antes de tiempo por un mal cálculo o por una demostración pretenciosa sobre las propias energías. El peregrino va descubriendo estos días que el camino no cansa tanto si se es paciente y se le trata con cariño y esmero. Y que a veces duele antes el corazón que las piernas, si uno no es comedido en su empeño. Y al marchar el caminante se introduce en los versos del poeta sevillano: “caminante no hay camino, se hace camino al andar, al andar se hace camino y al volver la vista atrás se ve la senda que nunca se ha de volver a pisar. Caminante no hay camino, sino estelas en la mar”. En realidad, no siempre se cumplen los versos machadianos, y el caminante encuentra en ocasiones a osados peregrinos que deshacen sus propios pasos para volver al origen de todo. El camino marca carácter si uno quiere tenerlo; si no, te deja indiferente entre la música “reaggaeton” que escupen los móviles de los muchachos canarios y la canción hortera del verano con que nos brindan los extremeños. Hay caminos y caminos, como hay peregrinos y gente “peregrina”. A veces conviene pararse a descansar o a disfrutar de la contemplación de una fuente o de una maravillosa iglesia románica y dejarles pasar para no contaminarse del bullicio festivalero y de la estulticia hecha andares. El caminante no quisiera ser tan duro en su juicio, pero hay escenas y tertulias ajenas que dañan el corazón del camino sin remedio. ¡Quizá es que no haya dos caminos iguales y algunos queramos imponer el nuestro! ¿Quién lo sabe? Así que detenerse y ver pasar la vida a veces es lo mejor. Es sabio saber parar cuando el cuerpo lo necesita, pero sublime hacerlo cuando el alma lo reclama.

La paciencia, la prudencia y la templanza forman parte decididamente del camino, como así la camaradería y la conversación entablada con caminantes “anónimos” italianos, austriacos, lituanos canadienses o franceses. Hombres y mujeres que parecen solitarios, enfrascados en sus pequeñas hazañas cotidianas de andar, andar y andar, pero que en realidad se saben bien acompañados en esta y en la otra senda. La jornada parece hoy aburrida y monótona, siempre al borde de la carretera, pero ¿no son así muchos de nuestros días en la Tierra? Sin embargo, no es monotonía lo que nos rodea; el problema es que el propio camino nos vuelve autómatas y marciales en la pisada y, de tan absorto como queda el andante ante sus propios pensamientos, vamos perdiéndonos las bellezas del paisaje y las emociones que nos rodean. Despertar los sentidos en el camino es una tarea constante y complicada entre los dolores diversos de los músculos y el peso siempre exagerado de la mochila en nuestras espaldas. Este peregrino desayuna en Gonzar y tiene que parar aún varias veces más a causa de un insufrible dolor en el tobillo. El dolor, como en la vida misma, forma así, antes o después, parte del camino del peregrino. Superarlo sin más no es tarea fácil sin la ayuda de Dios o sin la magia de los ungüentos y pócimas del fiel escudero “Sancho Panza”. El caminante no es un caballero andante medieval, pero le gustaría serlo. Si la solución al dolor es la simple resignación, pésima solución, el dolor puede convertirse en eterno debajo de la piel. Conviene pues afrontar el problema y azuzar el ingenio para vencerlo sin ser vencido por él. Y, cual “bálsamo de Fierabrás”, el caminante descubre que pasando el cordón de la bota por debajo de la lengüeta el dolor desaparece por completo y puede reanudar su marcha sin más pérdida. Las soluciones más sencillas y económicas son las que más complacen al viajero. Eso ocurre ya pasado el Hospital de la Cruz y las Ventas del Narón. El peregrino ha descubierto una enseñanza antigua, y ahora ya es consciente de que muchos caminantes pierden el tiempo avanzando en vez de pararse de una vez a solucionar los problemas cotidianos. El camino es más sabio que el caminante, que se reconoce unos ratos medio ignorante y los otros, ignorante completo.

Nunca se sabe si es posible alcanzar la felicidad en el Camino. Por lo visto hasta la jornada presente, la gente lo intenta con denuedo. Alcanzar tal estado dependerá, o no, del espíritu de cada cual, pero el caminante sospecha que el gozo completo reside más allá del sendero de las estrellas. El hombre que me habita no echa en falta la lluvia gallega cuando la humedad de la niebla bajo los árboles semeja una especie de “orbayu” que acaba casi en calabobos. Con seguridad, es un buen día para caminar y, ya sin dolor, remontamos veloces la marcha con algún que otro descanso sólo para contemplar las benditas iglesias enquistadas en los cementerios, santiguarse y obtener instantáneas de los “cruceiros”. El de Lameiros nos llena de temor con su calavera en la base, aunque después nos reconforta encontrar en lo alto de la cruz a la Madre con su Hijo, que protegen nuestro camino y nos libran de los peligros y de los malos vericuetos. Ya dijimos que el camino representa a la perfección el perfecto baile que la vida se trae con la muerte. Y si el camino engaña como un demonio no es por su culpa, sino por la nuestra, caminantes imperfectos de una vida finita e infinita a un tiempo. Otros cruceiros jalonan el recorrido como recordatorio de lo que somos y de lo que sin remedio seremos. Quizá, después de todo, “a Santa Compaña” viaja también por el camino con su ténebroso halo de muerte llevadera, portando la guadaña con que llevarse a fieles e infieles por delante. ¿Será por no encontrase con tal huésped que son pocos los peregrinos que se aventuran a viajar de noche? Y es que el miedo es mucho cuando el camino se oscurece y el cansancio merece buen abrigo para el alma y el cuerpo. Ya cuesta abajo llegamos antes de lo previsto a Palas de Rei, donde el camino cumple otra etapa de 25 kilómetros. El peregrino, satisfecho, se ducha y almuerza a placer y se sienta a escribir con un buen “oruxo” de caña que le desvirtúa el sésamo y la pituitaria y le hace desvariar letras y más letras en el papel. Quizá la habitual misa vespertina le devuelva la cordura y le reconduzca de nuevo por el sendero del bien. Todo depende de cada peregrino, pero Dios nos ayudará si le buscamos con ahínco.

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