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Cuaderno de Edimburgo

José Luis Restán | 83 comentarios valoración: 3  51 votos
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La catedral de Santa María aparece modesta pero bien situada, justo en el nudo que abre paso, llegando desde el barrio portuario de Leith, a la almendra central del viejo Edimburgo. Se construyó en 1801, cuando los católicos empezaban a salir de la clandestinidad en Escocia pero aun no había sido restaurada la Jerarquía, amputada de esas tierras en 1571, cuando la reforma encabezada por John Knox desató una violenta persecución contra quienes permanecieron fieles al Papa. La plácida llegada de los fieles que van a participar en la Misa vespertina del domingo contrasta con los tres siglos amargos que ha vivido esta comunidad.

La lectura de la deliciosa novela de Bruce Marshall, "El mundo, la carne y el padre Smith", me sirve para respirar el clima de desprecio que han sufrido los católicos en su vida diaria hasta bien entrado el siglo XX, pero también para atisbar la mezcla de coraje y deportividad con la que han sabido afrontarlo. Tras la reforma que dio lugar a la Iglesia de Escocia, familias enteras conservaron heroicamente la fe católica desde el extremo de las Highlands hasta los callejones de esta ciudad única, sin apenas asistencia pastoral ni posibilidad de celebrar los sacramentos, algo que durante un tiempo significaba incluso peligro de muerte.

Ya en el XIX llegó la gran emigración irlandesa que proporcionó una nueva base popular al catolicismo del país. Más tarde llegarían los italianos, muy presentes en la ciudad; y más recientemente los polacos, e incluso los indios. Todos ellos componen el rostro de la nueva estación para esta comunidad católica minoritaria pero bien asentada y ya plenamente reconocida, aunque no deja de constituir como una espina clavada en el costado de una sociedad muy secularizada, que ha sufrido de manera especial el azote del escepticismo en el plano cultural y existencial.

De hecho una de las cosas que más sorprenden, e incluso duelen, al transitar por el apretado tejido de la urbe, es el empleo de numerosas iglesias, muchas imponentes, para los más diversos menesteres: centros sociales, culturales y administrativos. Y es que aquel férvido movimiento de reforma, que como reconoce el P. Smith, protagonista de la mencionada novela de Marshall, tuvo su belleza e ímpetu ideal, ha sido en buena parte anegado por la indiferencia. Lo cual no significa que la exigencia del Evangelio haya desaparecido en el campo protestante ni que los católicos hayan sido inmunes al secularismo, sobre todo en los últimos cuarenta años.

En estos días llenos de agitación ante el próximo referéndum sobre la independencia de Escocia uno se pregunta si, en el fondo, la nueva ideología de la nación, convertida en un mito con su cohorte de símbolos, no será un pálido sustituto de la gran cultura popular cristiana (protestante y católica) que ha forjado la historia de estas tierras y ha gestado lo mejor que han ofrecido al mundo. Cuánto se ha perdido en este vaciado de la cultura del pueblo, solo aparentemente indoloro, es una pregunta que no admite respuestas académicas: es algo que habrán de responder vitalmente los escoceses de esta hora, y en eso no se diferencian demasiado del resto de los europeos.

El Evangelio del domingo, curiosamente, presenta la elección de Pedro como la roca sobre la que Jesús edificará su Iglesia. Contemplo los rostros de los doscientos fieles que asisten a la Misa en la catedral y pienso en la fidelidad y en los sufrimientos de varias generaciones de este pueblo por mantenerse unidos a esa roca. Una fidelidad que les ha hecho más fuertes para afrontar el viento de la secularización. También recuerdo las dos veces en que sendos sucesores de Pedro han podido realizar el sueño de venir a este lugar del norte para confortar a su gente y para renovar con humilde fortaleza la propuesta de la fe católica: Juan Pablo II en 1982 y Benedicto XVI en 2010. Y me siento contento de poder compartir con ellos la Eucaristía.

Al salir cae la tarde en Edimburgo, envuelta en los sones de la gaita y acariciada por los últimos rayos de un sol siempre vulnerable en estas latitudes. La gente vuelve a sus casas tranquilamente, para vivir la alegría dulce y fuerte de la fe, para ofrecerla de nuevo a sus vecinos. La historia, gracias a Dios, continúa.

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